Rains bring back the spittlebugs

Some people call them cuckoo spits. Others call them froghoppers or devil spits. No matter what you call spittlebugs they make a devil of a mess in landscapes. With the end of the drought, University of Georgia experts say spittlebugs are making a comeback around the state.

“During our drought years, two-lined spittlebugs were not as much of a problem because they need a high-moisture environment for the nymphs to develop in turf,” said Kris Braman, an entomologist with the UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences in Griffin, Ga. “We have had better moisture for two years now, so we might expect spittlebugs to make a comeback.”

Gooey mess

Atlanta radio garden show host Walter Reeves says callers began reporting spittlebug sightings in the spring. “Back in May, people were calling about seeing spittlebugs in Leland Cypress trees in big gooey masses,” he said.

The “goo” Reeves’ callers are seeing is spittle the nymphs make to protect themselves from predators and to maintain their preferred moist environment. It’s not the spittle that should cause concern, it’s the adult bugs that will follow that cause the damage.

"The adults have needle-like mouthparts to extract fluids from the plants," said Braman. "They inject a toxin that causes the grass to wither and turn brown. You will notice purplish streaking, browning and dieback on grasses that are repeatedly heavily infested.”

Nymphs are easy to spot. The spittle gives them away. The adults have distinctive markings. They are a quarter-inch long and have black, wedge- or tent-shaped bodies with two red lines across their backs.

“Because their backs are bright scarlet and exposed when the wings are spread, the effect is almost like a laser pointer zooming across the lawn,” said Will Hudson, a CAES entomologist in Tifton, Ga., who reports spittlebug populations are popping up in southwest Georgia, too.

Grass lovers

Spittlebugs prefer centipede, but feed on other warm-season grasses such as bermuda, zoysia and St. Augustine, too. In the Southeast, they also feed on some woody ornamentals, especially holly trees such as ‘Savannah’ Holly, Braman said.

“If hollies have been infested, the new growth will be twisted and deformed and the leaves will have irregular brown blotches,” she said.

But, if the nymph spittle is appearing in trees, don’t blame the two-line spittlebug.

“Spittlebugs appearing in Leland cypress in north Georgia are a different species, not the two-lined spittlebug that infests turfgrasses and attack hollies,” she said. “The nymphs of the two-lined spittlebug species only feed on nonwoody plants like turfgrass. If you see spittle masses in trees, they weren't put there by two-lined spittle-bugs."

Control measures

Braman says the best way to control spittlebugs is to disrupt their environment.

“Dethatching and topdressing can disrupt the high-moisture environment the nymphs need to survive,” she said. “You can treat with labeled pyrethroid insecticides.”

Be vigilant, though. The season isn’t over.

“The first of two generations have become adults now, so they are very visible,” Braman said. 
“However, usually the second generation is bigger than the first. It is starting to get dry where I am unless you happen to be underneath one of those pop up thunderstorms. We could have another big adult emergence from late July through August if there is sufficient moisture to support their development.”



By J Faith Peppers
University of Georgia

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Dealing with wet gardens and landscapes

Most gardeners view rainfall as a good thing. But too much of a good thing, namely rain, can be bad.
Disease is always an issue when there is abundant moisture and plants don’t have time to dry out. Many ornamentals, particularly annuals and tender perennials, suffer in the form of leaf spots and root rot. If annuals are not planted on raised beds, too much rainfall can cause them to die.

Pale, yellow coloring is a result of wet roots and leached nitrogen from the soil. Light applications of fertilizer will sometimes help perk up annuals, provided the rainfall levels off.

Leaf spots and other fungal diseases can be controlled through sanitation and occasional use of fungicides. Picking off infected leaves and removing heavily diseased plants will help to curtail the problem.

Some plants and vegetables have been affected by strong winds in combination with the wet soils. This has caused many plants to lean over. As long as the root system has not detached, the plants can be gently stood back up by hand. Then, lightly step on the opposite side of the plant root ball.

In some cases, it may be necessary to use a temporary staking system and guy wires to encourage a plant to grow back in the right direction. If you use wires, protect the plant with some form of a rubber collar such as an old water hose.

Small plants may be stood back up with the help of a single stake or even tomato cages. Corn that has blown over will often stand itself up in a few days and still produce decent ears.

Vegetable gardens also need attention. Weeds seem to love the wet conditions and most likely are thriving. Control weeds through light tilling and hand pulling. Weeds pull nutrients from the soil and will stunt vegetable plants if left unchecked.

As the summer progresses, keep an eye on your tomatoes. If the rains continue, tomato plants will be especially vulnerable.

Prune off diseased foliage to encourage new growth. Many tomatoes will exhibit growth cracks near the top of the fruit as a result of too much rain.

While they may not look pretty, these tomatoes are still perfectly fine to eat. Varieties that put out one or two big harvests should be removed after production to avoid buildup of diseases or insects.

It seems as though it is difficult to have a summer that has the right amount of rainfall. We either get too little or too much all at once. By paying close attention to landscapes and gardens during times of stressful conditions, you can help your plants survive.

By Robert Westerfield
University of Georgia

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DNR Researchers Use Low-cost Sonar to Map Stream Habitat

It’s a question every researcher who studies fish or other aquatic life eventually faces:

What exactly is beneath the surface of that murky stream?

Or as DNR aquatic resources biologist Adam Kaeser said, talking about detailed landscape maps, “Once you get to the edge of the water … you come to the edge of the information.”

Not for long. That lack of information is giving way to advances Kaeser and DNR GIS specialist Thom Litts have made translating imagery from a blue-collar, side-imaging sonar unit into a GIS layer that probes the underwater side of streams.

Kaeser and Litts have published their findings in American Fisheries Society journals (December 2008 and April 2010), trained some 200 people in using the sonar and scaled their methods to suit the most common level of ArcGIS. They are also providing software tools needed to process the sonar imagery for free. Results from the habitat mapping initiative offer biologists with limited training a low-cost, relatively fast way to document wood, substrate and other habitat in navigable streams.

“It would be extremely difficult to map large, muddy streams any other way,” Litts said. “I think we’ll see some good things come of this.”

The side-scan sonar method is already being used to explore habitat preferences of state-listed Barbour’s map turtles in southwest Georgia’s Ichawaynochaway Creek, search out spawning sites for the rare robust redhorse in the Ocmulgee River and study habitat relationships between three bass species in the upper Flint River. For the Auburn University bass study on the Flint, Kaeser and Litts covered nearly 15 miles of river in one day and produced the map in a week. Traditional methods – measuring habitat along transects and extrapolating findings to the entire area – would have taken several weeks, or longer.

Using side-scan sonar was once the realm of deep-water marine research with tow-behind-the-boat units worth tens of thousands of dollars. But Litts and Kaeser use a Humminbird 900-series Side Imaging system priced at less than $2,000. They motor along the middle of a stream at 5 mph, taking depth readings and sonar “snapshots” that reach from bank to bank.

Computer programs piece together the digital images, a process Litts wrote tools for and smoothed out the remaining kinks. It takes time to interpret the imagery, which looks like a moonscape, with boulders as bumps and logs as lines. Accuracy is confirmed through field spot-checks. The images taken by sound instead of light are rich in detail.

“We’re on our third or fourth generation of refinement,” Litts said.

But they are definitely on to something.

Kaeser envisions a biologist on a blackwater stream pulling up the data on his smartphone. “I think you’re going to see an explosion” in use, Kaeser said.

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Use deer-tolerant plants in your home landscape to keep wildlife at bay

Spring is the perfect time to add new flowers and trees to your home landscape. However, deer may love the new addition as much as you do.

“Deer like nutrient-rich plants, especially in spring and summer when does are pregnant or nursing, when young deer are growing and when bucks are growing antlers,” said Michael Mengak, wildlife specialist with the University of Georgia Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources. “Fertilized plants, such as those in home landscapes, provide protein, energy-rich carbohydrates, minerals and salts.”

Asiatic lilies, jessamine, daylily, hibiscus, hollyhock, hosta, Japanese maples, pansies and roses are a few deer favorites.

Adding deer-tolerant plants to the landscape will keep deer at bay, says Gary Wade, a UGA Cooperative Extension horticulturist.

“A good way to prevent deer from browsing in landscapes is to plant ornamental plants that deer do not like to eat,” Wade said. “Deer generally do not like plants with pungent aromas. They also shy away from plants with prickly or rough leaves and plants with a bitter taste.”

Deer-tolerant plants to try include:
Trees: bald cypress, crepe myrtle, Eastern red cedar, ginkgo, pawpaw, pine, spruce and tulip poplar.
Shrubs: boxwood, butterfly bush, common witchhazel, gardenia, Japanese rose, junipers, oleander, pomegranate, primrose jasmine and yucca.
Ornamental grasses: fountain grass, lemongrass, pampas grass and sedge.
Vines and groundcovers: columbine, creeping lantana, junipers and thyme.
Herbaceous perennials and bulbs: African lily, amaryllis, bee balm, butterfly weed, Christmas fern, daffodils, elephant ears, foam flower, iris, lantana, marjoram, peony, purple coneflower, tarragon, toad lily and yarrow.
Annuals: annual periwinkle, baby’s breath, basil, California poppy, snapdragon and sweet pea.

“There is no such thing as a deer-resistant plant, and when deer populations are high and food becomes scarce, deer may feed on plants that are thought to be deer-tolerant,” Mengak said.

By April Reese Sorrow
University of Georgia

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Snow and Ice Removal Tips for Plants, Trees, and Shrubs

/24-7/ -- Winter is not the time when most people focus on their yards; however, it is a time of year when a lot of damage can happen. The nation's lawn and landscape association, the Professional Landcare Network (PLANET), wants people to know how to care for plants, trees, and shrubs during the winter. Winter yard tips include the following:

Continue watering. Just because it isn't hot, doesn't mean that plants don't need water. Continue watering until a hard freeze. A well-hydrated plant has a better chance of survival.

Don't shake branches covered with snow and ice. It is best to gently brush off snow. Shaking limbs may break them. Wait for ice and frozen snow to melt naturally. If a limb does break, have it removed as soon as weather permits. It will help the tree or shrub heal better in the spring.

Watch out for winter warm spells. It is normally not a problem if you get a few warm days in the middle of winter; however, if you covered plants with cones or cold frames, you may want to ventilate them during the day and cover them again at night.

Prune. Late winter is a good time to prune and shape ornamental trees and roses.

Another thing to think about in the winter is the use of salt or melting agents for snow and ice.

"Many people put salt and melting agents on their sidewalks and driveways without realizing that the runoff can damage trees, shrubs, and lawns," said PLANET member Brett Lemcke, Landscape Industry Certified Manager of R.M. Landscape, Inc., in Hilton, New York. "Salt damages plants mainly by drawing water away from their roots."

Evergreen trees are particularly sensitive to salt. Look for brown needles or leaves on trees and shrubs; they are signs of damage. Building barriers to protect the plants from runoff and adding more sand and gravel to the salt mix will help minimize damage.

"If you have a difficult area to deice safely, you can always consult a professional," said Lemcke. "Many landscape and lawn care companies do this type of work for their clients in the winter."

For more information, or to find a lawn and landscape professional, log on to http://www.LandcareNetwork.org/findaprofessional.

PLANET is the association of members who create and maintain the QUALITY OF LIFE in communities across America. With more than 3,500 member companies and affiliates, these firms and their employees represent more than 100,000 green industry professionals. For more information on PLANET, visit LandcareNetwork.org or call the PLANET office at (800) 395-2522.

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Let wildlife call your landscape home

It seems a little strange writing a landscaping article about attracting wildlife. I’ve spent much of my career telling folks how to keep critters out of their landscape.

As a University of Georgia Cooperative Extension horticulturist, I get lots of questions about how to stop deer from eating flowers and how to deter squirrels from digging up bulbs.

Lately, however, I’ve seen a noticeable shift in landscape- and wildlife-related calls. People actually want to encourage wildlife into their landscape and enjoy bragging to neighbors and family about furry creatures visiting their landscape and feeders. As a wildlife enthusiast, I think this is a great trend.

You can have an attractive landscape and still make it eco-friendly for wildlife. You just have to realize that some plants are like salad bars to deer.

All animals look for three critical elements: food, water and shelter. Many landscape plants add beauty to your landscape while providing one or more of the basic elements.

Water is critical. Incorporate a water element by adding a small pond and a few bird baths. Deer, raccoons, birds and opossums are just a few of the critters that may visit your landscape watering hole.

Ponds don’t have to be large or fancy. Water tubs from farm supply stores or even metal wash tubs placed into holes dug in the ground make a miniature oasis for many animals.

To help fight evaporation and keep the water cool, put bird baths in the shade.

Food is the next major element to attract wildlife. Depending on what wildlife you like and what lives nearby, many different plants can draw them into your landscape.

Birds love to feast on berry-producing plants. Consider shrubs that fruit, such as Japanese hollies, inkberry, phyracantha and wax myrtle. There are many others to choose from.

Squirrels and deer appreciate nut-bearing trees such as oak, hickory and Chinese chestnut. It’s also good to include some fruit producers like crabapple, plum and persimmon trees or muscadine vines.

If you have room, plant a small food plot of wheat, clover, rye or oats to attract deer or turkey. Planting these near escape cover encourages daylight feeding. A one-eighth to one-fourth acre food plot provides a good food source year ‘round.

I set a digital trail camera close to my food plots to capture images of what visits when I’m not around. These cameras, available at sporting goods stores, are fun and easy to use.

Humming birds are also fun to watch and are easy to attract. Humming birds love plants that flower for a long time. They prefer trumpet-shaped blooms. Vines such as trumpet creeper, honeysuckle, crepe myrtle, or Carolina jasmine bring them in. You can add hummingbird feeders visible from your window.

Set up feeders for birds, squirrels and whatever else shows up. There are many great feeder designs out there to compliment any landscape design. I like natural looking wooden feeders.

Cover or shelter is the final element that wildlife needs. They need a place to escape from enemies, find refuge from weather and feel secure while they rest.

Different animals need different types of cover. Woodpeckers and flying squirrels like dead trees. Rabbits make nests in tall grass and weedy areas. Deer like to spend their afternoons in a secure shrubby area.

Include trees, bushes, brush piles and rock piles to attract more wildlife. Place different sizes of bird houses around the landscape, too, to bring in feathered friends.

Provide water, food and shelter, and your landscape can quickly become a wildlife sanctuary.

By Bob Westerfield
University of Georgia

Bob Westerfield is a University of Georgia Cooperative Extension consumer horticulturist.

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Choosing The Right Mulch

(NAPSI)-If you're looking for a simple way to add new life to a garden, boost curb appeal or spruce up your landscaping, it could be time to start mulching.

Mulch can improve the health of soil and plants by minimizing weed growth and retaining water and nutrients. Plus, a thick layer of mulch helps protect roots from cold weather and extreme heat-all while helping to define flower beds and "edge out" bushes and trees.

All mulch, however, is not created equal. Yard experts say using the right type can save you work and money in the long run.

For instance, mulch made from wood, gravel or straw often needs to be replaced a few times throughout the year. But mulch made from recycled rubber requires little to no maintenance and lasts years without fading, decomposing, compacting or losing its original beauty. International Mulch Company even manufactures recycled rubber mulches that look just like their natural counterparts. In addition to being used in gardens and beds, the mulches can be spread under playground equipment to keep children safe.

An added bonus: The mulch keeps tires out of landfills. In fact, by the end of the year, the company will have recycled more than 200 million pounds of rubber into a full suite of landscaping and playground products-from mulch to mats, and timbers to tree rings. Try these additional mulching tips:

Pre-Mulching

Thoroughly rake and weed the area you plan to mulch before adding any ground cover. You might also consider using landscape paper to prevent the growth of unwanted grass or plants in a mulched garden.

How Much Mulch?

About 2.5 cubic yards of wood mulch will provide 4-inch deep coverage to 200 square feet of garden. But with rubber mulch you only need 11/2 inches as it doesn't compact. You can find a number of mulch coverage charts and calculators online to help you get a more precise understanding of your needs.

Spreading Mulch

Generally, you'll only need a rake and shovel to spread mulch. Start with a pile in the middle of the area to be mulched and spread the ground cover toward the garden's edges. After the mulch has been spread, fill in bare or thin spots by hand and water thoroughly.

For more information, visit www.internationalmulch.com or call (866) 936-8524.

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Choosing Ground Cover For Eco-Friendly Beauty

(NAPSI)-Turfgrass, the nation's traditional ground cover, may be losing ground to the more eco-friendly creeping perennials.

Turfgrass is popular because it covers the soil nicely, but it requires high maintenance and uses a tremendous amount of water, fertilizer and chemicals to maintain its beauty.

Low-maintenance, eco-friendly creeping perennial ground cover is a great substitute for traditional turfgrass. For example, the Forever & Ever GroundCovers line of round covers provides options that grow in sun or shade, come in many colors and textures, and grow in areas where grass will not. They come back every season and look better each year.

Once the eco-friendly plants are established, they require very little water as compared to turf that requires constant watering. The need for fertilizer is also minimal. Most varieties only need one feeding of slow-release fertilizer each year as compared to three to four feedings for traditional turf. Many varieties provide a thick mat of foliage that helps prevent weeds, eliminating the need for chemical control.

Ground covers grow where grass won't and in small areas where it is difficult to maintain, such as on slopes, under trees or in confined landscapes. Many of the varieties will withstand some foot traffic. Varieties such as Platt's Black Brass Buttons, with its wonderfully textured purple-gray leaves, and County Park Pratia, with its showy blue blooms above a dense mat of foliage, are perfect varieties to use between stepping-stones or along walkways.

The collection also features several varieties of sedum that will work well in sunny, dry areas. Sedums work well on slopes and are a classic rock garden plant filling in between rocks, eliminating a haven for weeds. John Creech Sedum, with it purple-pink flowers and dense foliage, and Angelina Sedum, with its uniquely textured golden-yellow foliage, are star performers in sunny, arid areas.

Some ground covers, such as the Yellow Ripple Ivy, also do very well in patio containers. Ivy and other creeping perennials make great fillers for container gardens, drooping or cascading over the edges of the pots.

This line of creeping perennials brings colorful blooms, great foliage colors and unique textures to the garden, all with little care and maintenance. They are available at home centers and independent garden centers.

Ground covers grow where grass won't and in small areas where it is difficult to maintain, such as on slopes, under trees or in confined landscapes.

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Flavorful Landscapes -- A Growing Trend

(ARA) - Nothing beats the flavor of a fresh-from-the-garden tomato; warmed by the sun, plucked right from the plant and eaten in the garden.

More than 43 percent of U.S. households plan to experience this and the other benefits of homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs this summer, according to a recent survey by the National Gardening Association.

Space Limited? Get Creative
The good news is you don’t need much space to have an edible garden. Many gardeners grow food in containers or mixed in with their flowers, shrubs and other ornamental plantings.

Look for creative ways to include vegetables in your landscape. “I like to mix them with flowers in my container gardeners” says Melinda Myers, horticulturist and author. “One of my favorite combinations is ornamental corn, eggplant, tri-color sage, purple ruffle basil and trailing verbena. For a quick burst of spring beauty and produce I use Swiss chard as a vertical accent, add a few pansies -- they are edible -- colorful leaf lettuce or ornamental mustard and a trailing ivy or two for aesthetics, not eating.”

Limited sunlight? No worries
Full sun will give you the best results, but you can still grow edibles where sunshine is limited. Save the sunniest spot for tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers and other vegetables where you eat the flowers or fruit. They produce their best and have fewest disease problems when grown in eight to 12 hours of sunlight. Root crops such as beets, radishes and carrots can get by with about a half a day of direct sun and leafy crops like lettuce and spinach can still produce in a shady location with only four hours of sunlight.

Get Your Garden Off to a Good Start
Use a quality potting mix when growing in containers. It should have good drainage and retain moisture. In the garden, it’s important to properly prepare the soil before planting. Add several inches of compost, peat moss or other organic matter to the top 6- to 12-inches of soil. This improves drainage in heavy soils and increases water holding capacity for sandy or rocky soils.

Add a slow release fertilizer like Milorganite to the soil. This goof-proof organic source of nitrogen meets the Environmental Protection Agency’s Exceptional Quality standards and will help encourage growth without interfering with flowering and fruiting.

Time it Right
Let the weather be your planting guide. Cool season crops like lettuce, peas and broccoli can tolerate chilly air and soil. Wait for the danger of frost to pass and soil to warm before planting tomatoes, peppers, squash and melons. Myers suggests anxious gardeners can, “Jump start the season with the help of floating row covers. These polypropylene fabrics let air, light and water through while trapping the heat near the plants. The best part, you won’t need a hammer, nail or other tools. Simply lay the fabric over your planting leaving enough slack for the plants to grow and anchor the edges to the ground with stones, boards or other items.”

Maximize Your Efforts
Check the seed packets and plant tags for details on when and how to plant each herb and vegetable seed or transplant. Increase productivity with succession plantings. Simply start with lettuce, radishes or another cool weather plant. Once harvested, replant the area with onions or beans. After these are done you can replant the area once again with a fall crop of lettuce, spinach or radishes.

Double your harvest with interplanting. Plant quick-to-mature crops like radishes and lettuce in between longer maturing plantings of cabbage, tomatoes or eggplant. The short season vegetables will be ready to harvest just about the time the bigger plants are crowding them out.

Consider planting vegetables closer together in wider rows. You’ll waste less space for pathways putting more room in plantings. Make sure each plant has enough space to grow and that you can reach all planted areas to weed and harvest.

Just a Bit More Care Needed
Water new plantings thoroughly and often enough to keep the soil moist but not too wet. Add a layer of shredded leaves, evergreen needles or other organic material to conserve moisture, suppress weeds and moderate soil temperatures. Midsummer, give your plants a boost with a slow release organic nitrogen fertilizer like Milorganite. And don’t worry if the weather turns hot and dry, Milorganite won’t burn. It will remain in the soil until the plants are ready to use it.

Pull weeds as they appear, watch for bugs and wait for the produce to come pouring in. You may find this is a great family activity that gets even the most reluctant vegetable eaters munching on a few fresh carrots and maybe even broccoli.

Courtesy of ARAcontent


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Spring Planting Can Be for the Birds, and Butterflies

Spring means that backyard gardeners and landscapers are hard at work beautifying their yards. But in all of the bustle and planning, the Georgia Wildlife Resources Division recommends adding a place for wildlife, no matter the yard’s size.

Some tips:

** Plant fruit-producing shrubs like native crabapple, serviceberry, blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, dogwoods and wax myrtle. To attract songbirds including cardinals, robins, bluebirds, orioles, brown thrashers and mockingbirds, plant in clumps, clusters or islands. Cover provides nesting areas for birds and small mammals, as well as shelter from predators and inclement weather.

** Always use caution when using pesticides. Overuse or misuse of lawn chemicals can harm wildlife. Contact a local Cooperative Extension Service with questions about amounts and types of pesticides to use.

** Create a pool as a birdbath and gathering place for wildlife. A pool can be as simple as a small pond or as elaborate as an in-ground reservoir with waterfalls. Also, shallow birdbaths make excellent landscaping focal points.

** Don’t forget the butterflies! Cultivate nectar-producing plants such as salvia, lantana, butterfly bush, milkweeds, blazing star, impatiens and verbena to provide butterfly-viewing opportunities and add an array of color to backyard habitats. Planting butterfly larval host plants like hollyhock, fennel, violets, pawpaw and asters will also encourage butterflies to come to your garden and help them complete their life cycles.

** Use native plants as much as possible. Native wildlife is adapted to the plants, and the plants are adapted to surviving under local conditions with little need for extra fertilizer or water.

** Remember the field guide and binoculars. Watching wildlife can be fun for the entire family, especially considering Georgia’s rich diversity of wild animals and plants. Close-focusing (6 feet or less) binoculars allow you to observe butterflies up close. Field guides featuring birds and butterflies are great resources in helping identify species.

With proper planning, any yard can feature trees, shrubs and other plants that will provide food, shelter and habitat for wildlife. For more information on spring planting for birds and butterflies, visit Wildlife Resources’ Web site, www.georgiawildlife.com, click “Conservation” and choose “Wildlife in Your Backyard.”

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Free Advice for Home Gardeners

As families tighten their economic belts and search for ways to cut household budgets, one of the expenses some are choosing to cut is landscape service. Keeping a home landscape healthy and vibrant isn’t easy, but it is vital to maintaining home values.

Fear not. Help is available, and it’s free.

“All Georgiana have access to free information on home landscape management, lawn care and better management of household funds through their local University of Georgia Cooperative Extension office,” said Tony Tyson, director of county operations for UGA Extension. “We have offices in 157 of Georgia’s 159 counties, but we offer services and free advice to everyone.”

Online, information is available at www.ugaextension.com. The site offers publications on a vast array of topics related to home landscaping.

By calling 1-800-ASK-UGA1, Georgians can reach their county UGA Extension agent for advice, workshops, soil testing, water testing and a variety of other services.

“One of the most valuable tools most counties have is our digital distance diagnostics service,” Tyson said. “You can take in a bug or a diseased plant sample and in short order the county agent can send digital images of it to specialists who can help diagnose the problem and suggest ways to treat it.”

UGA Extension offers Master Gardener classes for those who really want to learn the ins and outs of home gardening. You can find out when the next class is available in your area by calling the county UGA Extension office.

UGA Extension is the outreach division of the UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences in partnership with the UGA College of Family and Consumer Sciences. They offer educational programs and materials related to agriculture, horticulture, families and consumer-related issues. They also offer education on youth development through the Georgia 4-H program.

“Our mission is to take the educational information generated through research at the university and deliver it to the people of Georgia who need it most,” Tyson said. “We aim to help Georgians live healthier, wealthier, more productive lives.”

Faith Peppers
University of Georgia

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Make this a Garden Season to Enjoy

(ARA) - The catalogues are starting to pile up and the list of landscape improvements grows longer each day. Don’t let this overwhelm or discourage you. Instead spend a bit of time planning now for better results in your garden. You will be amazed how much fun you can have while achieving your landscape goals under budget and within your schedule.

Take some time to look through those catalogues. It is a great way to gather ideas and get some feedback from everyone who uses or enjoys the landscape. You might find if they are invited to help with the planning they might just help with weeding. And no one is too young.

"Break out the crayons, paper, pencils, ruler, old catalogues and make garden planning a family event,” says nationally known gardening expert and author Melinda Myers. “Younger children can glue pictures of their favorite plants on a piece of paper while older ones can do the measuring, sketch the garden and help with the planting diagram." And if you are the sole gardener and caretaker, don’t worry. The same process works and you get to make all the decisions.

Once the family has had their input or you created your wish list of plants it is time to make sure your plan is realistic. Check to see if the plants selected will grow in the heat and cold of your region. Make sure they can also tolerate the soil, wind and moisture conditions. Matching the plant to the growing conditions means an attractive landscape and productive gardens with less work. Catalogues, your local Extension service and the Internet are great sources of information. This is great way to fight the winter blues.

Now it’s time to focus on the foundation of the garden, the soil under your feet. Preparing the soil with proper fertilization helps the plants you select grow and thrive. Start with a soil test to find out what type and how much fertilizer and soil amendments you need to add. The soil test results can save you time, money and insure you do the best for your plants and the environment. Over fertilizing wastes money, damages plants and can harm the environment.

While waiting for the results you can keep everyone involved with garden planning. Gather a cup of soil from your garden. Remove any sticks and stones and place it in a clean quart straight sided jar. Fill the jar 3/4 full and add a teaspoon of non-foaming detergent and shake. This is a great way to burn calories or use excess energy our young gardeners often have. Then allow the soil to settle.

You will begin to see layers of the different particles. Check the jar again in two days. The bottom layer is the heavier sand particles, followed by the medium sized silt and last the clay. This exercise will give you an idea of your soil structure. Compare what you found to the university lab results. "I have used this with young gardeners and it is amazing how excited they get about the soil in their garden. Even the more seasoned gardeners seem to enjoy this activity," says Myers.

Now select a fertilizer suited to your plants. "I prefer low-nitrogen slow-release fertilizers like Milorganite," says Melinda. "It is goof proof and safe for gardeners of all ages and experience to use. The organic source of nitrogen does not promote excess growth at the expense of flowers and helps to build stress tolerant plants. The non-leaching phosphorous is good for the environment and non-staining iron encourages a deep green color. Plus one product is good for all your gardening needs."

Incorporate Milorganite into the soil before planting your flower and vegetable gardens as well as landscape plants. The slow release nitrogen won’t burn the developing roots or interfere with flowering.

Give flower and vegetable plants a mid season boost. The organic source of nitrogen in Milorganite will not burn heat and drought stressed plants. And be sure to water thoroughly and only as needed to keep your plants looking good throughout the season.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

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"Green Roofs" Help Students Make The Grade

NF Note: Everyday we stumble across articles which have some thought provoking ideas for helping our environment. We wonder if this idea would work in Fayette County.

(NAPSI)-From starting school wide recycling plans to cleaning up area parks, today's students get high marks when it comes to helping the environment. Now a new program may help their grades go through the roof.

The initiative teaches students in grades 6 to 8 about green roofs--a roof that replaces traditional roofing with a living environment of plants and soil.

Among the benefits they offer, green roofs remove pollutants from storm water and reduce the amount of water that flows into sewer systems. The plants also store excess carbon from the atmosphere, lower radiant heat in the summer and create habitats for local wildlife. Additionally, green roofs provide extra insulation to buildings and last two or three times longer than traditional roofs.

The program, called The Roof Is Growing!, is run by the American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA). It provides a lesson plan, workbook and an online interactive program designed to engage students on how green roofs cool cities, clean the air, create habitats and control storm water.

Funded by a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts, the initiative is meant to inspire young students to think creatively and use their imaginations as future landscape architects or on any path they choose.

Of course, there are ways by which parents can get kids thinking green at home, too. Try these tips:

Make It Fun

Let your child decorate the recycling bins you have at home as you explain to her what items can and can't be recycled. You might even arrange for you and your child to tour the area recycling facility.

Take A Walk

Take your child for a walk in the woods to help him gain a greater appreciation of nature. If he has a favorite animal or habitat (deserts, jungles, etc.), encourage him to learn more at the library, at school and online.

Lead By Example

Be sure to recycle and take steps to protect the environment on your own. Setting a good example at home can help build Earth-friendly habits in kids that last a lifetime.

For more information, visit www.asla.org/greenroof.

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Plan A Garden Makeover For Seasonal Savings

(NAPSI)-Designing your garden to conserve water can help weed out one cause of high utility bills.

Advance planning can save homeowners hundreds and even thousands of gallons of water during the growing season. Here are a few tips for a water-saving garden makeover from the American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA).

• Start early. Plan ahead so that all new plantings take place in the spring. Plants require much less water to get situated when they are planted during the cooler months.

• Go native. When deciding what to install in your yard, consider native and drought-resistant plants. They typically require less maintenance and little watering once established (sometimes none at all).

• Must mulch. Use compost when planting and cover the area with mulch afterwards. Compost helps keep the water by the plant's roots and mulch prevents evaporation. Make sure to leave some space around the base of each plant and resist creating mulch mounds around plants and trees.

• Less lawn. The average American uses 200 gallons per day watering the lawn. Consider replacing some of that grass with an attractive ground cover that is drought resistant, covers a large area and requires no mowing.

• Supersoak. Up to a third of all water from sprinklers can evaporate during the heat of the day. Instead, give your plants fewer, heavy soakings. If you use sprinklers, only use them in the morning.

• Gray is good. Recapturing gray water or rainwater can provide a free source of garden irrigation. These systems can be easily installed and even incorporated into irrigation systems.

• Drip. Drip. Drip. Drip irrigation systems water plants right at the root and serve as an efficient alternative to sprinkler systems. For maximum effectiveness, be sure to get a timer.

To learn more about reducing utility bills through landscape design or to find a landscape architect, visit www.asla.org.

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The HSUS Offers Tips for Rethinking Lawns and the Environmental, Economic and Social Benefits

Lawns. The icon of the American suburb. We spend an extraordinary amount of time and money on them, despite what they do to our environment and particularly to wildlife. Americans spend billions of dollars annually to just fertilize and water lawns, not to mention the labor to mow and the gallons of gasoline to run those mowers.

According to John Hadidian, director, urban wildlife for The Humane Society of the United States, "The costs far outweigh the benefits when you consider the lawn from a wildlife perspective. Not to mention that lawns in some cases actually exacerbate conflicts between animals such as Canada geese and humans."

Having some lawn is not necessarily a bad thing. Lawns are visually appealing and provide a springy, open surface for recreational activities and entertaining for kids, adults, and pets. The benefits make some lawn space worth keeping, but only some – not the vast areas we currently maintain.

"Mid-summer is a great time for a yard makeover. Reducing the size of your lawn and introducing wildlife habitat will save big bucks on care and maintenance, since the new landscape should require only minimal work over the long term," Hadidian explains.

Tips for wildlife-friendly alternatives:

Planting beds of native nectar, berry and seed-producing plants favored by wildlife
Creating a meadow on a portion of your property
Installing a water feature, such as a small pond
Building shelter for wildlife, such as brush or rock piles in a corner of your yard
Replacing your lawn with drought-tolerant plants (xeriscaping) in dry parts of the country
Let it grow:

The easiest way to create a natural landscape from a lawn is to stop mowing it and let native plants gradually take it over. Start with limiting your no-mow zones to the corners or less-trafficked areas of your property. Continue to mow around them to create a neat "island" look. This lends the visual appeal that tends be more acceptable to the lawn-loving public.

Clearing the turf:

To install new wildlife-friendly features, start stripping lawn away. One easy approach is simply to extend the size of existing beds when edging them – even an inch or two a year is a contribution.

If you are patient and prefer a low-cost, low-sweat method, sheet mulching is a good option. This involves covering the lawn with several layers of organic material, akin to a forest floor. Over time, the combination of smothering layers and heat will break down your lawn. By next spring, your lawn will be a distant memory, replaced with rich organic material and ready for new garden plantings that will welcome wildlife.

Green Gardening: Save Time, Money and the Environment

(ARA) - Everyone wants a beautiful landscape but most people feel they lack the time and expertise to cultivate the results they want. With a few simple eco-friendly changes in your fall landscape care, you can get more beautiful results with a limited investment of time and effort.

Triple Your Benefits
Cut the grass, recycle fall leaves and improve the soil with a pass of the lawn mower. Shred leaves and leave them on the lawn as you mow this fall. As long as you can see the grass through the leaf pieces, the lawn will be fine.

According to nationally known horticulturist and gardening expert Melinda Myers, “Shredding leaves and leaving them on the lawn is good for the grass and saves you time. As the leaves break down they add organic matter to the soil, improving drainage in clay soil and water holding ability in sandy soils. It’s a great way to recycle a valuable natural resource and reduce your work load. You can increase the environmental benefit even further by using an electric mower to both cut your grass and shred the leaves.”

Further improve your lawn’s health with fall fertilization. University research has shown that fall fertilization is the most beneficial practice for home lawns. Less disease problems and slower weed growth means your lawns -- not the pests -- benefit from the nutrients. Fall fertilization also helps lawns recover from the stresses of summer because it encourages deep roots and denser growth that can better compete with weeds and tolerate disease and insects.

“Northern gardeners can follow the holiday schedule and fertilize Labor Day and Halloween. Southern gardeners should make their last fall fertilization at least 30 days before the lawn goes dormant or the average first killing frost to avoid winter kill,” recommends Myers.

Use a low nitrogen slow release fertilizer, for best results. Milorganite fertilizer is slow release and resists leaching. Its phosphorus and organic nitrogen stay in the root zone for the plants to use over a long period of time. And, it is good for the environment since the nutrients resist leaching into the groundwater and nearby well. Plus, the non-staining iron promotes greening without excess late season growth that could be subject to winter kill.

Less Work, Better Results
Leave healthy perennials stand for winter. According to Myers, “The seedheads add beauty to the winter landscape and provide food for the birds. Plus, research has found perennials left standing are better able to tolerate the rigors of winter.”

Be sure to remove any diseased or insect-infested plants to reduce the source of pest problems in next year’s garden. Use any extra fall leaves as mulch. Shred the leaves with your mower and spread a layer over the soil to conserve moisture and insulate the perennials’ roots. Not only are the leaves free, but using them as mulch is good for your garden and the environment. Fall mulching gives you a jump on next spring’s landscape chores.

Shredded leaves also make a good mulch for over bulbs. Plant daffodils, tulips and hyacinths in fall for extra color next spring. Set the bulbs at a depth of 2-to-3 times their height deep. Cover with soil, sprinkle on a low nitrogen slow release fertilizer like Milorganite and water. The low nitrogen slow release fertilizer promotes rooting without stimulating fall growth subject to winter kill. The leaf mulch helps conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature fluctuations and eventually improves the soil.

Dig ‘Em In
Still more leaves? Then shred them with the mower and dig them into vacant annual flower and vegetable gardens or incorporate them as you prepare new planting beds. You will be amazed at how quickly these leaves turn into organic matter and improve your garden’s soil. Add a little slow release fertilizer to feed the microorganisms and speed up their decomposition.

Or use the shredded leaves in your compost pile. Combine fall leaves with other plant waste, a bit of soil or compost, and a low nitrogen slow release fertilizer like Milorganite to create compost. Recycling yard waste saves time bagging, hauling and disposing of green debris. You also reduce or eliminate the need to buy soil to improve your existing garden soil.

So put away the rake and find creative ways to save time and money as you put fall leaves to work in your landscape. For more information, visit www.milorganite.com and www.melindamyers.com

Courtesy of ARAcontent

A Visit to Turnipseed Nursery in Fayetteville, GA

Turnipseed Nursery sits is surrounded by traffic, restaurants and a growing city. However, once you travel through the bush flanked driveway, it's hard to believe you're not out in the country, miles from civilization. Owner Steven Stinchcomb has created an oasis on the edge of Fayetteville that is well worth a visit, whether you like plants or not!

A well-known and talented artist, Stinchcomb opens his studio to the public during the few months the nursery is open. Walking around visitors and shoppers will find eye-catching sculpture sitting in the midst of gorgeous plants of all types.

Swans glide across the two ponds and waddle around the shores completely ignoring the visitors intruding in their world. On one shore a pair of swans guard a nest, taking turns sitting on the eggs that may have hatched by now. The numerous roosters haven't learned they're only supposed to crow in the mornings. They call for attention continually, only stopping when Stinchcomb fills their water dishes.

Bird houses are scattered among the vines and bushes, vines wind around older art pieces and interesting pieces of wood are artistically stacked making the entire nursery a work of art. The eye travels from one picture to the next, wanting to capture it all!

Plants. Yes, there are plants. There's so much to see the plants are almost an afterthought, even though they're plentiful. Take a break and visit Turnipseed Nursery. It's the perfect place to visit when you've had a stressful day. Take home a few plants, a birdbath, a painting or piece of sculpture and begin to create your own oasis.

Click this link to see some photos of Turnipseed Nursery.

Turnipseed Nursery Farms: 685 Glynn St S Fayetteville, GA 770-460-8534

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Protecting Your Landscape From Drought

NAPSI-According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, 2007 was one of the warmest years on record and one of the driest.

Severe to exceptional drought hit the Southeast and Western U.S. Water conservation measures and drought disasters were declared in at least five Southeastern states, as well as California, Oregon, Maryland, Connecticut and Delaware.

Fortunately, if 2008 shapes up to be another dry year, there are steps you can take now to protect your valuable landscape.

"Caring for your landscape in the spring makes it stronger if a drought hits your area this summer," says Bayer Advanced™ Garden Expert Lance Walheim, author of more than 30 garden books, including "Landscaping for Dummies." "Once dry weather sets in, it's everyone's responsibility to conserve water."

• Check your local water department for watering guidelines. When you do water, wet the entire root zone. Lawns should be watered so that 6 to 8 inches of the soil below is moist. Most shrubs should be watered to depths of 1 to 2 feet. Trees should be watered at depths of 2 to 3 feet. (Insert a stiff wire in the soil. It'll stop moving when it reaches dry soil.) Water again only when the soil has partially dried, letting the weather and water laws be your best guide.

• Mulch. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch (compost or wood chips) around plants and trees reduces evaporation and weeds.

• Check sprinklers. A little work now will prevent stressed plants and dead spots in the lawn later this summer. Fix clogged or broken sprinklers and redirect them so they don't water sidewalks, driveways or fences. Make sure you have enough sprinkler heads to cover the entire lawn. Set automatic timers for the watering schedule and check drip systems for clogged emitters.

• Protect trees and shrubs from insects. Many insects are attracted to drought-stressed plants and trees. Insect damage in lawns can also look like drought damage. Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub products protect against insects for up to 12 months without spraying. To control lawn pests, use Complete Insect Killer for Soil & Turf.

You can learn more by visiting www.bayeradvanced.com or by calling 1-877-BAYERAG. Always read and follow label instructions.

When it comes to protecting your landscape, a little work now will prevent stressed plants and dead spots during the summer.